Thursday 15 September 2011

Sizing - aaaaaargh!

Ok, so you ask someone what size they are and they tell you they are either a 10, 12 or 14 depending where they shop. Isn't it about time all clothing was made to the same sizing structure so we didn't have to take 3 different sizes into the changing rooms?

Thank God then for the European Directive which is trying to get all designers singing from the same song sheet. My Mosquito Head brand is now working to their sizing EN13402-3. You can see the EN size chart on this link... http://media.wiley.com/product_data/excerpt/72/14051756/1405175672.pdf

At the moment this is a voluntary scheme but surely it's in everyone's interest that we all stick to the same structure - whether you are a designer or a buyer?

INSIDE OUT – THE LIFE OF A FASHION DESIGNER - PART 2

In part 2 of my series looking at the paths taken by emerging designers, I'm focusing on Elephtheria Xenos.


Elephtheria is not only a fashion designer, she also personally designs and prints her own fabrics which gives her an additional unique selling point. Her prints, along with her clothing, is inspired by everything vintage as well as everything around her and she is a fan of Calvin Klein and Dolce & Gabanna due to the simplicity of their designs.

So how did she start out?  “I began studying fashion at college” she said. “It was something I loved doing and I received the highest grades in my college year which was why I decided to take a degree in it at Derby University.”

She added: “I really enjoy designing my garments then seeing them take shape as they’re made up. My designs are made from jersey or my own printed fabrics and I also like to mix the jersey with woven printed fabric to create contracting textures.

“It’s our in-house designed fabrics that make the brand unique along with our customisation service – we give our customers the opportunity to choose their own fabric, sleeve and neckline style, length of garment, etc, giving them a real input into their garment. I feel it’s important to get the right fit and you can’t get this with any high street brand. All our garments are couture and made to a very high standard.”


So what’s it like on a daily basis? “It is hectic; apart from the web development site, I do everything. I do the PR, designing, pattern cutting, grading fabric design, sourcing, events, everything and it’s a nightmare trying to organise myself and prioritise all my tasks.”

Elephtheria says it’s sometimes challenging to organise her team but with lots of effort, the work gets done in time. However, her biggest struggle at the moment is raising awareness of her brand.  “I’m working hard to get featured on as many blogs and get involved in as many fashion shows as possible in order to overcome this,” she said.

Keep an eye on the Fashion Killerz Facebook page for details of her forthcoming events.

How did she get involved with designing her own fabrics? Elephtheria explained: “As I was going through my degree in Fashion Design, I would always design my own fabric. I would always have an image of the print and colour of the fabric I would want to use, so it was harder for me to try and find this vision of my fabric so I created it instead. I didn’t have any training for this but as I finished university, I looked into design and print design jobs and landed my first job working with a freelance designer who taught me all I know about print design. I managed to sell my prints to Japan and America. This was something I did to bring money in while I was building by business.”

She continued: “I’m really proud that my business is now up and running and I now need to keep up with all that comes with fashion, making sure releases are sent in time, planning for my next collection, trying to get involved in shows. It takes a lot of organisation.”

And what does the future hold? Elephtheria has big plans. “I aspire to become well known for my customisation, design and fabric design. I would like to be known for doing something different.”

Well, I’ve seen Elephtheria’s collections at a number of fashion shows and I can vouch that they have a sophisticated simplicity and they are superbly finished. You can buy a selection of her garments at www.fashionkillerz.com.



Sunday 4 September 2011

INSIDE OUT – THE LIFE OF A FASHION DESIGNER - PART 1

What does it take to be a fashion designer? What routes can you take? What are the challenges and highlights? I’ll be aiming to find out in a series of blogs in which I talk to some of those who are living the dream.
First up is Tamara Joseph.
Is fashion design in your blood? Possibly. Tamara knew wanted to be a fashion designer since the tender age of seven, inspired by both her mum and gran who were both keen self- taught pattern cutters. At this early age Tamara’s mum taught her how to use a sewing machine and by the age of nine she was following and adapting patterns from Prima magazine.

At the age of 13 she started working in a boutique, owned by a close family friend, where she learnt about formal wear and marketing. At the same age, and at the more casual end of the fashion spectrum, she started making MC Hammer style pants (which was all the rage for both sexes back in those days – thank God fashions have changed!) and sold them to her school mates for £10 per pair, making £8 profit each time.  Highly entrepreneurial!

Tamara then embarked on the traditional route to becoming a designer, enrolling on an ND Fashion course , followed by an HND , then a BA where she created a menswear collection for BHS Graduate week. Whilst on her HND she undertook a six month work placement with designer Bella Freud and carried out projects with Ben Di Lisi, Paul Smith, Daks Simpson, and Bon Marche. She was also taught design by Yorkshire-based designer Kevan Jon.

She later worked for various retailers in a management role before going freelance for an interior design company, dressing show houses.

Tamara said: “Whilst freelancing, I started to study teaching and got a job as Fashion and Textiles Technician at Solihull College. I continued to study to be a teacher and within three months I’d started teaching there. I left the college with a PGCE and a Diploma in photography and got a job with the University of Wolverhampton as Senior Fashion Technician. I decided to study for my Masters Degree in Art and Design - Fashion and textiles and a little glass. At the same time, I was accepted on a business placement called S.P.E.E.D (Students Placement Entrepreneur In Education). The placement gave me confidence in my work again, gave me access to mentors, advice and funding to start my own business. Two years on, I’ve just completed my MA and am due to graduate in February 2012. Business is booming. Today, as well as continuing to design my own collections, I’m also Course Leader of Fashion and Clothing at New College Nottingham.

Tamara has taken part in various shows and exhibitions, including Clothes Show Live and her biggest dream ever - London Fashion Week' and African Fashion Week. In September 2011, she will be also be showcasing at Artfest-Birmingham. Phew! Where does she find the time?

So, what are Tamara’s inspirations? “Well, I can’t say I have a favourite designer, as this would mean never disagreeing with their collection choices. Instead. I like elements of different designers such as Issey Miyake's silhouettes, Oswald Boatengs’ sharpness, Comme de Garcon’s style, Hussain Chaylan's surfaces and Paul Smith's prints…Victoria Beckham’s elegance. I'm always changing.”

I think Tamara’s view here is entirely correct. Many Fashion courses require you to study a particular designer and keep an eye on current trends, but personally, I think this stifles your own creativity. Of course, if you aim to work for a high street fashion chain, then keeping up to date with what’s ‘in’ is vital, but if you want to become an independent designer and have free rein, then I think it’s better to try not to be too influenced by the work of other people.

“Life is my main inspiration” adds Tamara. “The things I see, photography, my own experiences, watching people, listening to people, the list is endless. Working with new emerging designers and seeing their drive and ambition is always inspiring; I just love bouncing energy off them. My Mum and my partner, Robert, are my biggest inspirations as they have always supported and encouraged me even when my work has meant that I’ve had less time to dedicate to them and their needs.”
Tamara has certainly created her own style, often incorporating her own photographic images in her designs, giving them a totally unique look and this combines her two passions beautifully. “I’m known for my bold prints and although I’ve designed and created many a collection without print, I get more excited about seeing my collection when I do include print as most designers that usually showcase with me rarely use this,” she comments.

What are the down sides to the business? Tamara says that as an emerging designer, she’s forever trying to compete to be noticed and that her biggest downfall is comparing her own work with that of other designers. However, she appreciates that they, too, will have faced their own problems and, like her, will probably have spent many years struggling to make a name for themselves. It’s a tough industry, that’s for sure. And one that demands commitment and time as well as a good eye for style and sound design skills.


Tamara continues: “While self evaluation is a positive thing to do, looking at the bigger picture makes you more stable. When I first started, I was trying to make a collection every season like the big designers but struggled to keep up because a) they have a team behind them, b) they have financial backing, c) they have already generated a reputation and d) they have time as they don’t have to take on another job at the same time to pay the bills.

“Now, I’ve come to accept that although there’s a lot of competition out there, it is not a competition; you can only give what you’ve got,. My advice is be patient and believe in yourself. It’s better to be known for brilliant work and an outstanding collection that people remember positively than to be remembered  for really poor work.

“Time has been a huge pressure for me and one of my major challenges has been the heavy work load of the fashion shows  (she will have taken part in 14 by the end of this year alone) while  studying for my Masters at the same time. It takes over your life and can make you forget about all the people you care about if you’re not careful!”

And finally, what is Tamara’s dream for the future? “Mostly it’s to have the financial backing which would allow me to make more extravagant collections and I’d also love to team up with or employ another designer with the same dreams, passions and energy as myself.”

Well, I love your work Tamara and I’ve always admired your dedication, I know we’ll see a lot more of you in the coming years.

Tamara designs a range of womens and menswear. Many of her items can be purchased at www.fashionkillerz.com. Take a look.